In the first half of the 20th century, thousands of fire lookouts — mostly in the form of small wooden cabins built atop scenic mountaintops — covered the United States.

They were usually staffed each summer by forest service employees, who monitored for fire activity and basked in the constant solitude of these out-of-the-way places. During World War II, some lookouts were used for spotting enemy planes that never came, and some were even staffed in the winter.

But over the decades, budget changes and better technology caused the number of fire lookouts to greatly diminish. Many fell victim to decay from weather, abandonment, and vandalism. However, several hundred staffed or publicly accessible fire lookouts still remain across the U.S. today. 

In Washington, where between 500 and 600 lookout structures once existed, there are now only about 90 still standing, according to Amber Casali’s 2018 book “Hiking Washington’s Fire Lookouts.” Whatcom County has five particularly excellent lookouts, steeped in history and stunning views. For those hearty enough to reach them, the rewards are many.    

Desolation Peak Lookout

The 1932-built Desolation Peak Lookout is among both the most famous and most remote lookouts in our state. Originally constructed by forest service employee Oscar Banner, the 6,102-foot-high lookout’s most famous resident was Beat Generation author Jack Kerouac, who was stationed there in the summer of 1956.

Kerouac’s experiences found their way into two semi-fictionalized books — “The Dharma Bums” (1958) and “Desolation Angels” (1965) — as well as the non-fiction collection “Lonesome Traveler” (1960). Nearly 70 years after Kerouac last set foot inside the 14-foot-by-14-foot (L-4 style) cabin, it’s still staffed each summer — now by employees of North Cascades National Park.

The cabin is locked and closed to the public when on-duty employees aren’t present. But when it’s open, a host of amenities can be seen, including a gas stove, oven, and fridge, as well as a bed, desk, counter, and bookshelf.

Desolation Peak can be reached two different ways, neither of which is easy. The first is to arrive at the peak’s trailhead via a 13-mile boat ride up Ross Lake, and then make a steep, arduous climb that gains 4,400 feet over the course of less than 5 miles. You can also cut out the boat ride and hike about 22.5 miles to reach it (that’s about 45 miles roundtrip).

Sourdough Mountain Lookout

Among the nation’s first fire lookout sites in 1917, the existing L-4 cabin at Sourdough Mountain was built in 1933 by Civilian Conservation Corps workers. Beat Generation poet Gary Snyder was stationed there for the summer in 1953.

When North Cascades National Park was created in the late 1960s, Sourdough’s ownership was transferred from the Forest Service to the National Park Service. A new roof was installed in 1980, and the cabin continues to be used by park employees today on an as-needed basis.

Although the inside of the cabin can’t be accessed by the public, the view from about 6,000 feet above sea level is incredible, encompassing the majesty of the North Cascades. The roughly 5-mile hike to get to the top sees 5,000 feet of elevation gain and is among the most challenging lookout hikes you can tackle.

As of June 2024, the trail was still closed due to 2023 wildfire damage. One day, it may again be open.

Winchester Mountain Lookout

Located about 6,500 feet above sea level, the Winchester Mountain Lookout provides stunning views of Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, the Pickett Range, and surrounding wilderness.

The 14-by-14-foot L-4 ground house cabin was built in 1935 and remained staffed until 1966. In 1982, the Mount Baker Club obtained a special use permit to restore and maintain the lookout. It remains open to the public during the summer and can be slept in overnight on a first-come, first-served basis.

Turning onto Twin Lakes Road from the Mount Baker Highway will get you part of the way there. The drive to the trailhead can be difficult and perilous, but after a 1.7-mile hike that gains 1,300 feet of elevation, your reward is being enveloped in the majesty of the North Cascades.

Inside the cabin is a cot, chair, bench, and supplies like sunscreen, batteries, books, and a first-aid kit. Just three miles from the U.S.-Canadian border, the lookout is surrounded by mountain peaks — and not far from where historic gold mining once took place in the early 1900s.

Copper Mountain Lookout

The Copper Mountain (also known as ‘Copper Ridge’) Lookout was built by the U.S. Forest Service in 1934. In 1943, the lookout was manned in wintertime as part of the Aircraft Warning Service during WWII. Operation and ownership of the cabin transferred to the National Park Service in the late 1960s with the formation of North Cascades National Park. Although no longer staffed full-time, the cabin continues to be used by the park’s wilderness rangers on an as-needed basis.

Getting there requires a trip down the Mount Baker Highway, followed by a drive up Hannegan Pass Road. That, however, is the easy part, because reaching then lookout requires a lengthy hike in each direction, with about 3,200 feet of elevation gain to get to the 6,260-foot-high cabin.

While you can’t camp at the lookout, there are multiple places to camp along the route, which is handy owing to the plentiful mileage of getting there and back. From the top of Copper Mountain, splendid views of Mineral Mountain, Ruth Mountain, Mount Baker, and Mount Shuksan will greet you.

Note: some of the surrounding area is closed due to recent years’ wildfire damage, so be aware of all potential trail and camp closures.

Park Butte Lookout

Located about 5,400 feet above sea level, Park Butte Lookout sits on a timberline ridge along the southern flank of Mount Baker. Another 14-by-14-foot L-4 structure surrounded by a catwalk, it was built in 1932 and staffed from 1933 to 1961. The Skagit Alpine Club now maintains the lookout, which is part of the National Register of Historic Places.

Getting there requires a trip along the North Cascades Highway until one reaches Baker Lake Road, followed by a short ride along a forest service road to the trailhead. A 3.75-mile hike (with about 2,100 feet of elevation gain) brings you face-to-face with Koma Kulshan herself. The mountain played into the lookout’s final service stint in the 1970s, when concerns over a potential eruption saw the cabin used as a volcano monitoring site.

Today, you can sleep in the cabin overnight on a first-come, first served basis, and sign the numerous guest logbooks still inside it during the day.

As with any planned hike, make sure to check trail and weather conditions, tell someone where you’re going, and be aware of any permits you may need.