Of the many players on the Whatcom County microbrew scene, few know the privilege of having a farm at their fingertips from which to source both ingredients and inspiration. One special five-acre Blaine farmstead carries the spirit of European style brewing – and is the heart of Atwood Ales’ operations. Moreover, it’s home and haven for a family committed to sustainability and stewardship of the land.
Atwood Ales founder, Josh Smith, partnered with his father, Stephen, to utilize their family farm as the center of a small-batch brewery. With their barn as their brew house and their crops just outside the door, brewing revolves around the season and what the land provides. While Josh manages operations, Stephen’s strength is caring for the farmstead. “The term ‘farm manager’ is foreign to me,” he says. “It only came about because of this business venture. This place is beloved and is my sanctuary from the noise of the world. A haven and my little piece of heaven.”
A significant portion of Atwood’s brewing needs are supplied by a hop yard at the rear of the property. Grapes are grown to flavor their Raccoon Bacchanal saison, as well as raspberries and blueberries for other brews. “We’re unique in this area and fortunate to be able to grow many of the things we employ in our beers,” Stephen says. “While we are a work in progress, we strive to hold true to the traditional European farm breweries, growing and brewing with what’s available. And, of course, drinking it throughout the day…for sustenance and fortification!” A recent addition of tart, heritage cider apple trees rounds out the crops they use for Atwood’s brew experiments.
To minimize the impact of production, brew house waste is cleverly reutilized. “Sustainability is certainly a part of our farm plan,” Stephen says. “To that end, we recycle all of our waste water from the brew house for much of our irrigation requirements. We test it and treat it as required and build a great compost tea from it.” The brews’ spent grains are composted as well, before being spread on the hop yard.
Apart from cultivating for the brewery and the family’s vegetable needs, Stephen has put much time and consideration into the ecological harmony of his farm. He focuses on improving both soil health and biodiversity by using cover crops. He will commonly employ buckwheat, crimson clover and lacy phacelia, among others. “Lacey Phacelia is arguably the favorite flower of the Bumblebee species,” he explains. “It also attracts other pollinators and hover flies, which eat aphids and other pests.”
Using natural mediation methods like this reduces the need for chemical intervention. This provides relief and a safe haven to the variety of species that share the land, including salmon that run the stream flowing along the property.
Before the inception of Atwood Ales, Josh Smith received his Master’s degree in Landscape Architecture. Stephen invited his son to rehabilitate areas of the farm to include more native plant species. “We both thought it would be a good idea to return the land to native plantings,” says Stephen. “Josh developed a planting plan which is evident today surrounding the planting plots. It really is a pleasure to spend time out there.”
The hedgerows they made provide habitat and forage for native pollinators and birds, increasing the health and diversity of the farm. “We do all we can to benefit our feathered friends, as well as all manner of pollinators,” Stephen says. “It’s a great pleasure to provide flowers and seed for them, and we are rewarded with their presence.” The native species design also includes a wildlife corridor, which allows animals safe passage through their property.
At the end of the day, Stephen likes to find his seat on one of the teak benches scattered beneath the maple trees that look out over his farm. “It’s time consuming and hard work but a labor of love to be sure,” he says. “It’s most often while quietly sitting there with a tasty beverage from the brew house that I take the time to relish the fruits of our labor and marvel at the colors and sounds of that thoughtfully executed landscape.”
While Atwood Ales is currently a production-only facility, interested individuals can visit their website and sign up for tours of the farm. Their beers can also be enjoyed at the weekly Bellingham Farmers Market.
Sponsored
