If trees could talk, the ones along Chuckanut Drive would have a lot to say.
It has been more than 100 years since the first vehicles ventured out along this scenic byway. Back then the road was gravel, which meant the route was bumpy. Still, it was undeniably beautiful, with sheer granite shoulders, heavily forested vertical drops and jaw-dropping views of Samish Bay and the island outcroppings along the way.
One of my favorite drives on a gorgeous day, Chuckanut, also known as State Route 11, connects the Skagit Valley to Whatcom County. For Bellinghamsters the route logically begins in Fairhaven while for those coming from the south it makes more sense to exit the I-5 in Burlington and begin in the Skagit River Delta, climbing the rocky shoulder of the Chuckanut Mountains.
Chuckanut Drive is not a time efficient route, so if you’re in a rush be sure to take I-5 instead and save this curvaceous beauty for an occasion when you have the luxury of time. A leisurely Sunday afternoon, perhaps, when you can stop at the scenic overlooks, peruse the art gallery and have a great meal along the way. What are the highlights, you ask? Here are my top picks:
Hungry?
From Chuckanut Drive, wind down Rocky Point Road at the old Oyster Creek Inn in Bow and check out the Taylor Shellfish farm store. Farmers grow manila clams, oysters, mussels and geoducks in the tidelands below, and the sun-soaked picnic tables overlooking the tidal flats are a great place for an impromptu lunch of shuck-your-own oysters, smoked salmon and cooked dungeness crab. Oyster shells litter the floor of the picnic area, a testament to the many seafood lovers who have shared this spot over the years. With the tide lapping at the beach nearby and the Chuckanut Mountains a mass of lush, steep greenery behind us, you’ll have the world’s best view at your fingertips.
Care for a Walk?
Larrabee, Washington’s first State Park, is home to Clayton Beach and its tidal pools. The sandstone formations along the beach are dramatic and compelling, with honey-colored Arbutus trees leaning at gravity defying angles off the cliff side. Bring your camera and take family pics against this dramatic backdrop shaped and sculpted by wind, water and time. If you’ve got kids in tow, they’ll love exploring the tidal pools which are crawling with hermit crabs and other marine treasures.
Own a kayak?
Chuckanut Bay is one of the best paddling sites in the county, its curvaceous coast full of quiet coves where herons fish in the shallows. If time permits plan a quiet paddle to Chuckanut Island, a forested 5-acre preserve that’s a favorite daytime destination among the kayakers who frequent this bay. If you’re feeling less adventurous stick close to the shore, and kayak instead past the steep bluffs, the honeycomb shapes in the sandstone and the blissful, quiet beauty of the bay. You’ll feel like you’re on the edge of the world.
Bring hiking boots?
In the Chuckanut Mountain Recreation Area some 60 miles of trails snake through the dense forest. The mostly flat Chuckanut Ridge trail is a great place to start, an easy hike for which no equipment or experience is required. The mountain is dotted with second growth Douglas firs, hemlocks, Sitka spruce and western red cedar, but look out for the odd old-growth tree that survived fire, defied the loggers and continues to thrive. The trail brings hikers close to the steep cliffs of the ridge, below which a creek tumbles in the distance and the precipitous drop is a frighteningly vertical 200 feet – straight down. From these vantage points you can see the peak of Mount Baker, the Twin Sisters Mountains and Raptor Ridge in the distance.
Celebrating?
Head to the Chuckanut Manor Seafood & Grill, where you can dine al fresco on the patio on a beautiful day, or inside when the weather is cooler. Built in 1934, it’s been lovingly maintained and as a result has aged gracefully, with no evidence of wear and tear. Inside the decor is contemporary, with a nautical theme and Skagit Valley scenes painted by local artist Gerald Baron. The ambience is genteel and refined, tables are decked in white tablecloths and decorated with fresh flowers and the food is artfully presented. Want to spend fewer dollars? Visit Chuckanut Manor during Happy Hour.
Love Art?
Definitely stop at the Chuckanut Bay Gallery & Sculpture Garden to browse. Its buildings date back to 1930 and showcase the work of over 400 regional artists whose art includes pottery, etched glass, jewelry, wooden crafts, textiles, art prints and garden ornaments. This is a one-of-a-kind store so if you’re looking for unique objets d’art that reflect the inspirations of local creative types, this is your place.